Marathon Creatures

Before I began training for a marathon last winter, my running efforts were casual and rarely exceeded six miles. I ran when I felt I needed to maintain a modicum of fitness and when the weather was too poor for the other activities that I typically find more enjoyable such as bicycling or long hikes. I’ve walked more than 20 miles in a day at least twice and ridden a few century rides on a fully loaded touring bicycle, but—as I discovered—running a marathon is not those things.

Reactions of friends and family toward news of my marathon goal were two-pronged. First, I received a quizzical you-might-regret-it look. The conversation then shifted to the inevitable question, “Which marathon?” My own, was my simple reply. The thought of running an organized marathon seemed much too stressful. What if I wasn’t feeling well the day of the race? What if I didn’t sleep well the night before? What if I didn’t want to be around other people? Running on my own time at a place I chose solved those dilemmas.

That’s how I found myself in April 2025 running the Northern Maine Mike Fitz Memorial Fun Run 42K Act-like-a-tough-guy Marathon Classic. By using quiet roads during Maine’s infamous springtime mud season, my marathon became a solo event where I avoided anyone else on foot. It also gave me a lot of time to think.

On training runs I often wondered about other organisms that regularly achieve amazing feats of endurance. Who could I compare my efforts to? After feasting all summer in Alaska, humpback whales migrate to Hawaii or the Pacific coast of Mexico. Bar-tailed godwits fly for eight days without stopping between Alaska and New Zealand. I’m on the other side of the continent, however. A local connection would be more appropriate. Wood frogs endure winter frozen like an ice cube in the leaf litter of my woods. But that’s a slow endurance, maybe even best considered a tolerance for challenging conditions. Black bear hibernation wouldn’t be an apt comparison either, since that process revolves around energy conservation and limited movement. White-tailed deer make local migrations to wintering yards with thinner snowpack like under a dense canopy of conifers, but that is a bit of a browse-as-you-go strategy and may not cover long distances. What about a migrating songbird such as a thrush, warbler, wren, or vireo? They are small-bodied, energetic, warm-blooded, and achieve amazing migrations. There are many I could’ve compared my marathon with. My area of Maine hosts at least 22 species of wood warblers. All of them migrate south for the winter. One warbler makes the journey unlike any other, however.

Dear Blackpoll Warbler,

What do you feel when you leave Maine in October? What forces draw you south to fly non-stop over the Atlantic to the north coast of South America? Are you nervous or anxious to begin? Is it anything like wanderlust or it is more powerful? Do you feel relief when you arrive? Do you feel hunger along the way? If so, does it feel different than normal?

A warbler with a black cap, white cheeks, white wing bars, and a white breast streaked with black feathers stands on a spruce twig. Photo taken by Oliver Patrick. 11 Jun 2021. Penobscot, Maine, United States.


Blackpoll warblers (Setophaga striata) are smaller-than-sparrow-sized, primarily insectivorous birds. Summers are spent nesting in coniferous forests of northern North America from Alaska to Nova Scotia. In my area, I find them among dense stands of spruce and fir trees, especially on mountains like Mount Chase, but they also breed at sea level in conifer-dominated forests along Eastern Maine’s coastline where the ocean temperatures chill summer’s heat.

Blackpolls are part of an explosion of migratory songbirds that breed in Maine every summer, and after a long quiet winter I long to hear the forests filled with their shouts again. Unlike some of the bouncier and louder songs of sparrows, other warblers, and ruby-crowned kinglets, the blackpoll’s song is easy to miss. Its frequency range is among the highest known among birds. Whenever I hear it, I know I’ve entered a boreal place.

A male blackpoll warbler’s song recorded on Mount Chase in Maine on June 19, 2023. M. Fitz’s audio.

Their migration routes vary, although their month-long northward journey in spring typically utilizes many overland stopovers from South America across the Caribbean to Florida and the mainland U.S. The southward migration is when the birds express their greatest endurance. Blackpolls in Maine and Nova Scotia frequently launch due south in early fall on a route that takes them directly over the Atlantic Ocean. They follow prevailing winds out past the island of Bermuda until trade winds bring them back toward the Caribbean shore of South America. The three day trip is one of the longest, non-stop overwater flights yet known among migratory songbirds.

A warbler with a black cap, white cheeks, white wing bars, and a white breast streaked with black feathers stands on a birch twig with bright green leaves.
A male blackpoll warbler perches on a birch twig. Photo by Cephas, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Humans are well adapted for running. Sweat shunts body heat to the skin where evaporation carries it away to prevent overheating. Our upright posture offers an efficient stride and improves our line of sight, all the while freeing our hands to carry tools and other objects. In contrast, long-distance running is hard for lots of other animals, so their running efforts are usually measured to take advantage of their particular suite of adaptations. The white-tailed deer, moose, and black bears that I share my forest with can easily outpace me in a 100 or 1000 meter dash (among mammals, humans are not great sprinters), but those species also overheat quickly, especially on a warm day, while a person could still be trotting along, sweating, yes, but also clearheaded enough to consider tactics and communicate with other people.

It would’ve been a mistake to attempt my marathon without training, so I started building running endurance about 16 weeks before I ran the full length. Following the recommendations outlined in The Non-Runner’s Marathon Trainer, I ran three times per week. The two shorter runs were of equal length and the long run was about 1/3 longer. Total mileage increased each week. I had to get used to eating and drinking during the longer runs and pay attention to my stride to prevent injury from repetition of movement.

The blackpoll prepares for migration in his own way too. Cues from day length calibrate his internal clock with the season so he knows to leave at the optimal time. Freed from the burden of chick rearing, he has the energy to replace old feathers with new plumage. He aims to double his body mass in the days leading up to departure from the Maine coast. To accomplish such rapid weight gain, he doubles or triples the amount of food he eats. His stomach, liver, and intestines increase in size too. It is a temporary change, however. Blackpolls migrating over the ocean have no opportunity to eat. He sheds unnecessary mass at the same time he sequesters fat by shrinking the size of his gut and liver during last days before migration. In late September or early October when he alights on a spruce crown hugging a rocky headland, overlooking waves crashing beneath, the bird is ready.

I broke my run into five sections, each punctuated by a short break to drink water and eat food. I divided the warbler’s effort similarly in my mind, although he does not stop or ingest any food or water while migrating over the Atlantic Ocean. The five divisions of his migration are merely an arbitrary method to frame the comparison. He weighs anywhere from 20-23 grams upon departing Maine. His species’ over-ocean route averages 3,000 kilometers (1,864 miles). Radar observations of migrating songbirds have found a flight speed of 38 – 43 kilometers per hour. At a 40 kilometer per hour pace, the blackpoll will need 75 hours to arrive in Puerto Rico. If he decides to skip the Caribbean islands, he may fly non-stop for 88 hours. I aimed for a 5-hour, 42-kilometer (26.2-mile) run. It is not the same.

I felt ready for my run when I began on April 5, although I would also make mistakes along the way.

Mike’s Marathon. Section 1: 7.4 miles. Total distance: 7.4 miles.
I follow my short loop route from home plus a mile-long spur to increase the mileage on the first leg. I run a combination of town roads, logging roads, and ATV trails. The trails remain snow covered and a little squirrelly underfoot, but the snow is compacted and shallow enough that it isn’t a burden to run through. I feel fine at the end of the section, like this is just a warmup. Upon reaching home, I’m not very hungry or thirsty. Still, I fuel up with cookies, chocolate milk, and water knowing that I need the energy and liquids in my body later.

Blackpoll migration. Late September. Section 1. Total flight time: 21 hours. Total flight distance: 840 kilometers.
A passing cold front brings northerly winds. The blackpoll cannot be still. He expresses zugunruhe, a German word which means migratory restlessness. He relieves it at nightfall by launching over the Gulf of Maine. Challenges lay ahead, but he’s made for flying. Pneumatic bones offer reduced mass without compromising bone strength. His blood binds to and carries oxygen at higher affinities than mammals so he can better supply oxygen to flight muscles under challenging conditions. Importantly, the blackpoll breathes with an ease that I can’t match. Unlike my dead-end, mammalian lungs where inhaled air mixes with the previous breath, his respiratory system is unidirectional. He uses a system of air sacs to inhale and exhale. None of a bird’s nine air sacs contain blood vessels. They play no part in the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide. Birds have no diaphragm either, so the air sacs serve as bellows and air storage areas for the lungs in addition to connecting with hollow bones in their bodies. As the blackpoll inhales, half the incoming air fills one lung while the other half enters a pair of caudal air sacs. This breath also moves previously inhaled, deoxygenated air from the lungs to cranial air sacs. Exhalation pushes air from the lungs and the cranial sacs out through the trachea, while fresh air stored in the caudal air sacs moves behind the departing air into the lungs. The cycle ensures that his lungs always receive fresh, oxygenated air. It is an elegant, efficient system. I wish I had it. Despite his flight time and distance covered thus far, the bird still has 54 hours to go.

Mike’s Marathon continued. Section 2: 3.6 miles. Total distance: 11 miles.
I run to the east end of my road and back. The route undulates and this is no burden at this stage of the run. I remain energetic, although I am in no way pushing my pace beyond a comfortable level. It’d be hard to participate in a conversation as I run, but I’d have the breath to try. I eat and drink more upon returning home.

Blackpoll migration continued. Section 2. Total flight time: 31.5 hours. Total flight distance: 1,260 kilometers.
It is the second full day of his obligatory flight. The effort is directly tied to his survival. He cannot survive the cold temperatures of a North American winter. He could utilize an overland route to escape. Some blackpolls do, especially those in poorer body condition. Stopping frequently can reduce the risk of exhaustion, but it can also slow the pace of migration and increase the bird’s vulnerability to predators. One big leap over the ocean, so to speak, can save overall flight time and reduce the risk of predation. Natural selection has determined this is his best bet.

Mike’s marathon continued. Section 3: 5.4 miles. Total distance: 16.4 miles.
I run west from home to the end of the road and back. The road is straight and hilly. Navigating remains easy. I don’t even need to think about it, having run this way dozens of times previously. I only need to remember how far to go. I feel thirsty at the end of each section, yet I still pee about every hour. The cool weather helps reduce my body’s need for liquids. Between 25˚ and 35˚ F are the perfect temperatures for running, IMO, and that’s the weather provided today. Perhaps I should take better advantage of it. The original goal was a 20-mile training run, which the training book does not call for, after completing an 18-miler last week, yet my legs still feel good at the end of this section. I begin to believe I can finish the marathon if I commit to it. With the favorable weather and my body cooperating so far, I decide to get it over with.

Blackpoll migration continued. Section 3. Total flight time: 46.5 hours. Total flight distance: 1,860 km.
The bird has flown through another night. After dark, he becomes an astronomer by using the apparent rotation of the stars in the sky to determine direction. Has favorable weather eased the journey south or has it become a barrier to progress? Headwinds close to a bird’s flight speed can stall forward movement. Wind from the wrong direction can blow him off course or force him to use extra energy to stay on course. A tailwind, in contrast, would provide the extra push needed to get him over the last dangerous stretches of open sea. Is the blackpoll feeling different compared to when he started? Do his flight muscles ache? He’s been flying for two days, non-stop. A lack of sleep, surprisingly, isn’t an issue. Birds can sleep only one half of their brain at a time. Even when flying, they keep at least one eye open.

Mike’s marathon continued. Section 4: 4.6 miles. Total distance: 21 miles.
I go east again with a short detour off the main road to add an extra mile. I feel worked but not exhausted. The greatest discomfort exists at the bottom of my feet and toenails from the constant pounding of footfalls. I’m losing a toenail from a long run I completed a couple of weeks ago. I do not want to lose any more. I try to adjust my stride on the downhills to compensate. There is no flat section, however. Just false flats at best. I’m tired, but I also still think I can finish another five miles. At the end of this section, I eat and drink again. It won’t be enough as I’ll soon discover.

Blackpoll migration continued. Section 4. Total flight time: 60 hours. Total flight distance: 2,400 km.
The ocean and clouds do not provide reliable landmarks to aid his navigation. He’s not flying blind, though. Unlike me, the blackpoll does not rely on landmarks to follow his migratory route. Cells in his upper bill contain magnetite. Scientists theorize this allows the bird to sense the strength of the magnetic field. His retina includes special light gathering cells, known as a cryptochromes. Light at the blue and turquoise end of the spectrum excites electrons within the cryptochromes, which may allow the bird to actually see direction. It would be a stunning ability to possess. The blackpoll has flown far enough that he might be able to land on a Caribbean island if necessary. He could also choose to keep going to the north coast of South America. Do hunger and energy levels make the decision for him?

Mike’s marathon finale. Section 5: 5.4 miles. Total distance: 26.4 miles. Destination: Home.
The first few miles of the last section are tolerable. I’ve slowed considerably since the start of the run more than four hours ago, but at least my energy hasn’t bottomed out. Until it does. About three miles from home and my finish line, I feel gassed. Runners call it hitting the wall. Cyclists call it bonking or blown-out legs. No matter what, it sucked. I should’ve consumed more fuel at my last pit stop. I could use that energy now and I regret not carrying some snacks with me for the final leg. The bottom of my feet ache. Each trot is an effort. I am a little light-headed. There is a weird tingling sensation from my elbows to my fingertips. But the only choice is to move forward. Stopping would be worse. There’s little chance of hitching a ride if I quit. I see two cars in the last hour of running. I can’t remember if I needed to run all the way to the end of the road but do anyway so I don’t end up short of a full marathon when I get home. In between thoughts of food and water, with no alternative transportation other than my legs and feet, I set mini goals. Get to the next knoll. Get to the base of that hill. Get to that dirt road a few hundred yards ahead. Be glad you’re not at the start of the race. The last half of the marathon was harder than the first. The last five miles was harder than the previous five miles. The last three miles was harder still. The last mile was hardest of all. Cresting the last rise in the road, I can see the house. Near exhaustion becomes relief.

Blackpoll migration finale. Section 5. Total flight time: 75 hours. Total distance: 3,000 km. Destination: Puerto Rico.
My energy tanked when I failed to eat during the last five miles of my marathon. The blackpoll hasn’t eaten any food or drank any water since leaving Maine three days ago. Fat has been his primary fuel. The warbler used special enzymes to better mobilize stored body fat, specialized transporter proteins to carry fat through the bloodstream, and additional special enzymes to get fats into muscle cells and deliver it to the cells’ mitochondria. Burning fat also produces metabolic water, just enough hydration to keep him going. The blackpoll’s abdomen bulged with fat upon departure three days ago when he weighed about 20 grams. He now weighs about 13 grams. The effort cost him one-third of his body mass. He’s nearly emaciated as he reaches Puerto Rico. He’ll stay here for a few days to refuel before continuing to South America. He needed all his physiological and metabolic tricks to make the journey successfully. Does he also feel an avian equivalent of relief when sighting his final destination?

Running a marathon and then comparing it to the blackpoll’s migration has been humbling. I’m glad I finished the marathon, although I’m still not sure why I did it. Maybe I ran it just for the challenge, which I suppose is as good of a reason as any. The blackpoll, in contrast, migrates because instinct compels him. Nevertheless, my marathon was in no way equivalent to the blackpoll’s fall migration. I didn’t gain any immediate reproductive or survival benefits. The blackpoll did. I didn’t have to worry about drowning in the ocean if I stopped. The blackpoll did. I didn’t have to evade predators waiting to take advantage of my exhaustion upon arrival. The blackpoll did. I didn’t move non-stop for three days. The blackpoll did. I didn’t have to forage for wild foods when I finished. The blackpoll did. I don’t have to repeat the journey next year. The blackpoll does, all the while achieving feats of endurance no human can replicate.

References:

  • DeLuca, W. V, et al. (2015) Transoceanic migration by a 12 g songbird. Biology Letters. 11(4): 20141045. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsbl.2014.1045.
  • DeLuca, W., et al. (2020) Blackpoll Warbler (Setophaga striata), version 1.0. In Birds of the World (A. F. Poole, Editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://doi.org/10.2173/bow.bkpwar.01.
  • Lovette, I. J. and J. W. Fitzpatrick, eds. (2016) Cornell Lab of Ornithology Handbook of Bird Biology. Third Edition. Princeton University Press.

The Remarkable Hummingbird Tongue

In the northern third of Maine spring weather is fitful, and I sometimes wonder if winter will ever break its hold. Eventually, though, usually in mid March, snow cover begins to thin as the sun travels higher in the sky and daylight hours lengthen. Around this time, maple sap runs heavy. As April arrives the hazelnut, speckled alder, and aspen (or “popples” as they are locally called) break bud as the ground thaws in earnest. I might see my first dark-eyed junco of the year about that time, followed by flickers and sapsuckers who drum from the trees as they establish nesting territories. Wood frogs, spring peepers, and salamanders wake from hibernation and migrate to their breeding pools on rainy nights. The warblers return in May along with early ephemeral wildflowers and the first expanding tree leaves in the canopy.

Although I welcome these changes like a reunion with friends, there’s one event beyond any other (even the appearance of biting insects), that to me signals the full arrival of spring—the return of hummingbirds.

A male ruby-throated hummingbird.

On May 12, I was treated to the first hummingbirds of the year at my feeders. Only one hummingbird species, the ruby-throated, nests in the northeast U.S. and southeastern Canada. The ruby-throats that establish summer residency near me may have migrated from wintering areas in Central America, probably by flying over the Gulf of Mexico before making their way farther north.

With a heart that pounds at several hundred beats per minute and wings that buzz at a too-fast-to-see pace, an active hummingbird is a powerful metabolic furnace. While insects and spiders are important foods, the fat and protein the bird ingests from invertebrate prey goes only so far in its effort to sustain their exceptionally high metabolism and energy-intensive flight. An active hummingbird’s metabolism is so high that it must eat about half its body weight in sugar each day, and it digests sugar so rapidly that it essentially refuels in flight.

The energetic costs of this lifestyle are great, so if you are a tiny bird that weighs only a few grams then it pays to be as efficient in your nectar gathering as possible. For a hummingbird, the process begins with an ingenious adaptation of the tongue.

Scientists long assumed that hummingbirds utilized the passive work of capillary action to drink nectar—stick your tongue into a flower, contact nectar with it, and allow the liquid’s surface tension to coat the tongue. However, in a 2011 paper published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Science,* Alejandro Rico-Guevara and Margaret Rubega discovered that that a hummingbird tongue works in a much more efficient manner.

A hummingbird’s tongue is forked, somewhat tubular, and supported by stiff rods. That anatomy has been known for quite some time, but Rico-Guevara and Rubega found that the tongue utilizes no capillary action. Instead it is a shape shifter, a fluid trap, and in the author’s words, “a dynamic liquid trapping device.”

As the bird sticks its tongue out the tips remain adhered together. At this point, it looks like a long pin. Once the tongue contacts nectar, though, the real magic of the tongue’s anatomy begins its work. First, the tongue splits as curved lamellae (parallel hair like structures) along the tongue tips unfurl in the liquid.

GIF of
In nectar, a hummingbird’s unrolled tongue tips substantially increase the surface area in contact with the nectar. Timestamp is in milliseconds. Movie SM01 from (2011) Rico-Guevara and Rubega.

As the bird retracts its tongue, the lamellae re-furl over the supporting rods and trap a tube of nectar inside each tongue tip.

A view of a hummingbird’s tongue re-furling as it is withdrawn from nectar. Air is on the left. Liquid is on the right. Timestamp is in milliseconds. Movie SM03 from (2011) Rico-Guevara and Rubega.
A closer view of the tongue re-furling. Air is on the left. Liquid is on the right. Timestamp is in milliseconds. Movie SM04 from (2011) Rico-Guevara and Rubega.

Amazingly, the tongue’s transformation and liquid trapping properties are driven not by muscles, but by fluid and gaseous forces acting directly on the tongue. The tongue’s structure is hydrophilic, so when the tongue contacts air the lamellae curl around the nectar and traps it inside. The bird releases the nectar by squeezing and slightly flattening the tongue as it is pulled into the bill.

Nectar can be a difficult to access food. Hummingbirds exploit it like no other bird because they can hover in flight and, as a group, have diverse beak lengths and curvatures to probe flowers of different sizes and shapes. They are also clever enough to trapline—that is, they’ll visit the same food sources like patches of flowers on a regular basis to minimize competition and maximize nectar availability.

But knowing how specialized the hummingbird’s tongue is, I’ll never look at a feeding hummingbird the same way. The hummingbird tongue, long thought to be a passive part of the process, is a superb adaption that plays no small role in helping these tiny birds live a large life.

*The paper is a fascinating bit of natural history and is open-access, so I encourage you to read if you want to learn more about this topic.

Bird, Bird, Bird, Bird is the Word

Bird Week 2022 on explore.org has come and gone, but if you missed it I hosted a series of live events to celebrate birds and learn more about their amazing lives.

World Migratory Bird Day Live Chat (May 14)

California Condor Q&A

Osprey Q&A

Bald eagle Q&A

Atlantic Puffin Q&A

I also wrote and narrated a video series highlighting a few superpowers of birds.

Migratory Endurance

Feathers

Woodpecker Skulls

Finally, in my most recent blog post on explore.org I examine the phenomenon of siblicide in certain birds. Life in the nest can be harsh, and some birds take their sibling rivalry to the extreme.

I thank the crew at explore.org for helping to produce Bird Week and showcase these wonderful and amazing creatures. I hope you’ve had an opportunity to enjoy some time watching our feathered neighbors. If not, do yourself a favor and make the effort. Even the most common and overlooked birds have incredible stories to tell.

A chestnut-sided warbler--a small perching bird with a yellow cap, whitish breast, and chestnut colored flanks under the wing--stands on a willow twig.
Chestnut-sided warbler

Francis Beilder Forest

Tucked away in a section of Four Holes Swamp, a tributary of the Edisto River in South Carolina, lies a pocket of remarkable forest. Currently owned and managed by the National Audubon Society, Francis Beilder Forest protects the largest virgin bald cypress and tupelo swamp remaining in North America.

silhouette of large bald cypress tree surrounded by other treesBald cypress (Taxodium distichum) is a deciduous member of the cypress family (Cupressaceae), which includes juniper, white-cedar, arborvitae, incense-cedar, Sequoia, and redwood. Like hickory trees, however, bald cypress shed their pinnate leaves each fall and grow new leaves in the spring. This characteristic inspired their common name since the trees are “bald” for at least part of the year. The species is long-lived and its wood is rot resistant. Recently, cypress logs dating back 25,000 to 50,000 years have been uncovered from sand quarries along the Pee–Dee River.

Visiting the Beilder forest is easy, requiring only the ability to traverse a level, 1.75 mile-long boardwalk. Walking into the forest, I could immediately see this was a special place.

black water swamp in winter with reflections of trees in waterBald cypress swamps experience seasonal flooding, and when I visited in mid December the forest was covered in a blanket of tea-colored water stained brown by tannins. The day was relatively warm and temperatures reached above 60˚ F. A few turtles and snakes took the opportunity to climb out of the water and sun themselves on fallen logs. My attention, however, was consistently drawn to the canopy and the craggy tops of centuries- and millennium-old bald cypress trees.

silhouette of large bald cypress treeBald cypress is one of the longest-lived trees in North America and the longest-lived tree in the eastern U.S. The oldest known tree at Beilder is nearly 1,600 years old. Along the boardwalk, you can find a 1,000-year giant, which outwardly looks healthy enough to stand another thousand years. (I asked the Audubon staff if I could see the 1,600 year-old tree and to my delight it could be found along the boardwalk. But, I won’t disclose its exact location since the staff would like to avoid making it a target for vandals.)

silhouette of large bald cypress tree

A thousand year-old giant in Francis Beilder Forest. This tree grows adjacent to the boardwalk and is identified by a sign.

At Beilder, many trees are massively trunked, resembling the silhouette of giant sequoia. Above their basal swell, they barely seem to taper until their branches splay outward in the canopy.

silhouette of large bald cypress tree; tree is surrounded by a boardwalkWhen you live to be over 1,000 years old you’re bound to acquire a scar or two. Reaching over 100 feet high, each bald cypress carries a legacy of the battles with insects, fire, and severe weather like thunderstorms, tornados, and hurricanes.

crown of large bald cypress with broken branch

Some time ago, a large branch broke off of this tree, perhaps allowing carpenter ants an easy means of entry. Larger holes in the same branch are the work of large woodpeckers like pileated woodpeckers. One hundred and fifty years ago, ivory-billed woodpeckers would’ve inhabited this place too. Could some of these woodpecker holes be from this extinct bird?

top of trunk of hollow bald cypress tree

The charcoaled interior of this large bald cypress preserves a moment in time when it was struck by lightning and burned.

Collectively and individually, these trees tell a fascinating story, if we are willing to listen. Maybe the most poignant of those, from my perspective, is loss.

I marveled at the trees at Francis Beidler, but I marveled at a fragment. Their longevity and physical proportions might only be remarkable because we’ve eradicated nearly all other bald cypress of the same size and age. Francis Beidler Forest is one of the few places where old-growth bald cypress trees still exist. According to one estimate, over 42 million acres of bald cypress forests once covered the southeastern United States, an area nearly the size of Missouri. Now, only 10,000 acres remain, equivalent to .02% of the original bald cypress forest! The rest was logged for lumber, furniture, and shingles with no forethought for future generations who may find great value (monetary or otherwise) in healthy ecosystems or for the species who depended on this habitat.

Through uncontrolled hunting and the loss of old-growth forests like bald cypress swamps, we drove the Carolina parakeet and ivory-billed woodpecker to extinction. Knowing what we consumed in the past, understanding that we continue to cause extinctions and change the climate today, can we ethically expand our footprint on Earth? How much extinction does it take before we say enough is enough?

The trees at Beilder felt the pounding of the ivory-bill and heard the calls of parakeets. Perhaps they were even enveloped by passenger pigeons, a species once so abundant in North America that their flocks extended for miles and blackened the skies. The air in this forest used to ring with the echoes of these birds. When we lose forests, we lose much more than trees.

 

Someone’s eating the berries

In low elevation areas at the foot of the North Cascades, salmonberries are quickly ripening and I have plenty of competition in the race to harvest them.

ripe salmonberrySalmonberries (Rubus spectabilis) are moderately tall shrubs with compound leaves and bright magenta flowers. The flowers later produce large, raspberry-like fruit in various shades of yellow, orange, or scarlet. According to Cascade-Olympic Natural History, the plant’s common name derives from the fruit’s ability to cut the greasiness or fishiness of salmon, not from their color. Like many sugary, wild fruits, they are relished by more than humans. Recently, other critters have beaten me to the choicest berries.

stem of plant missing its fruit

Increasingly often, I find salmonberry shrubs stripped of their ripe berries.

 

Bears, of course, will eat salmonberries, but most of the berries I’ve seen have been plucked a bit too delicately to be the work of a bear. Bright red or yellow berries aren’t just an advertisement for mammals. They attract birds as well. Cedar waxwings, in particular, are pronounced frugivores and I recently watched a few in the act of stripping a salmonberry shrub clean.

I’ll gladly yield the fruit to these birds, since they’re doing the legwork (or is it wing-work?) to disperse the seeds. In the waxwing’s digestive tract, the seeds are carried far and wide, and if the seed is extremely lucky the bird will deposit it in a moist, sunny spot with rich soil.

More than waxwings influence this plant’s reproduction, however. Earlier this spring, I watched many rufous hummingbirds visit its large magenta flowers.

magenta colored flower with five petals

The salmonberry flower.

Salmonberry blooms relatively early in the spring (I found it in full bloom in mid April this year), a time when few other hummingbird flowers are present. Salmonberry plants aren’t exclusively pollinated by hummingbirds, but I watched hummingbirds frequently visit more than one patch of salmonberry blossoms this spring, so it may be an important early source of nectar for them.

In blossom and in fruit, salmonberry is tied to birds. Have you noticed similar connections in your local ecosystem?

Nests and Fledglings

Standing in a driveway in western Pennsylvania yesterday, a robin flew quickly from a garage as I walked by. Today I watched a robin, probably the same as yesterday, flush from the same place. Both times the bird flew maybe ten meters before perching and making several alarm calls. Both times it remained nearby, calling, until I left. The robin had a good reason to stick around. Inside the garage, in an old hanging basket, it had a nest with several mostly naked chicks.*

naked robin chicks in nestAmerican robins, due to their tolerance of humans and our habitations, are fantastic birds to seek out in the spring, especially if you want to watch the nesting process. Last year, a robin built a nest under the roof eave of my house. It was a perfect location for the bird—secluded, hidden, and difficult for predators to access—and for me since the nest was only two feet outside of my bathroom window. It was a great opportunity to witness the growth and behavior the chicks in the nest, and I could watch it with minimal disturbance to the birds. Several times a day I watched the nest, the highlights of which I compiled into a video.

For American robins, the timespan from the start of incubation to fledging is very short, generally less than one month total. All the robins in the video above fledged within 13 days of hatching, growing nearly to the size of their parents during that short time.

Adult robin (upper left) and fledgling robin (lower right) perched on tree branches. Tree is big leaf maple.

A robin fledgling (lower right) follows one of its parents a day after fledging.

 

After these young songbirds fledged, their parents still had work to do. The fledglings followed mom and dad, continuing to beg for food, and the parents had to keep a watchful eye for predators. It’s difficult job and most robin chicks don’t survive to adulthood.

Once they leave the nest, fledglings of many species aren’t silent. I found this yellow-rumped warbler fledgling last spring by its impressively loud begging calls.

In temperate North America, mid spring to early summer is an exciting time to watch birds. The next time you’re outside, watch and listen carefully. You may find many birds very busy with the business of reproduction and survival.

*Please watch bird nests ethically. The nesting season is a stressful and difficult time for young and adult birds alike. Adult birds will likely view you as a threat. Some birds are very sensitive to disturbance and may abandon their nest and young. Careless footsteps may trample eggs or chicks of ground nesting species. Some birds, like killdeer, will expend considerable energy trying to distract and lure you away from their nest. Keep enough distance between you and the nest to avoid disturbance and watch through binoculars.

A Bufflehead Meets Its Demise

On a recent ski, I was daydreaming for a moment or two, just staring down at the snow. I glanced up for a moment to see a raptor flying away from a dead snag. It didn’t fly far and landed in another dead standing tree about a hundred meters away. Through my binoculars, I saw an adult peregrine falcon staring back at me.

bird perched on tree branch

Peregrine Falcon

Moving slightly farther on my skis, I spooked a second peregrine. This one though flushed from the ground and when I looked toward its place of origin, I saw a pile of feathers. The falcons had been eating breakfast.

feathers and blood on snow near tree

The peregrines were feeding on a bird when I accidently spooked them.

Curiosity compelled me to investigate the kill. I skied over to the bird on the snow. It was a duck, a bufflehead to be specific. This duck hadn’t been dead long. Blood had yet to coagulate and the falcons had only eaten parts of the back and most of the neck.

dead bird on snow

Peregrine falcons had not been feeding long on this bufflehead when I found it.

Buffleheads are diving ducks that feed mostly on aquatic insects in freshwater environments. The Stehekin River was not far away from the scene, but the river at the location, just a mile or so downstream of High Bridge, is too small to meet the habitat requirements of this species. Buffleheads prefer deeper, more open water found on ponds, lakes, coastlines, and larger rivers.

What might the bufflehead be doing so far upriver? I suppose it could’ve been in the water, but peregrine falcons are adept aerial hunters. Buffleheads are strong flyers, yet peregrines, as the fastest animal in the world, could have overtaken the bufflehead in a spectacular stoop, a swift dive when they strike and kill the bird in the air. The bufflehead might’ve been flying up valley, migrating to a different area, when it met its demise. The cliffs above the river valley in this location would be ideal places for peregrines to perch and hunt birds from.

After a moment or two, I left the falcons to their meal after watching them perch in the trees. When I returned later in the afternoon on my way home, I revisited the scene and found only a smattering of downy feathers and blood stains on the snow.

Feathers and blood on snow with shadow of photographer.

By mid afternoon, only feathers and a few blood spots remained of the bufflehead.

This was a bad morning for the bufflehead, but a good one for the falcons.

 

 

In the Salt Marsh

Along the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico, from Newfoundland to Florida, you can find a special habitat—the Spartina salt marsh. A transition zone between the land and the sea, this is a challenging place to live for many organisms. I found myself with some spare time while visiting family in South Carolina, so of course I couldn’t resist exploring a nearby salt marsh, one of the most productive ecosystems on Earth. This habitat produces more biomass per meter than almost any other biome. Only tropical rainforests are more productive.

brown grass in salt marsh meadow

A typical salt marsh scene in winter: golden-colored cordgrass.

I reached the marsh near low tide, which exposed soggy ditches and mud flats. The mud was soupy in places, sucking at my boots.

Looking down on boots in soupy, dark brown mud.

Oysters clung together in the lowest reaches of the tidal flats and ditches. The tips of their shells may be fragile, but they are also extremely sharp, as sharp as a surgeon’s scalpel. I don’t know whether the shell’s sharpness is an accident of evolution or an adaptation to protect them from predators like drums, rays, and clumsy humans like me. I do know that I’ll never forget the first time I tried to walk over a few oysters while only wearing flip flops. Trust me, it’s not a pleasant experience.

oyster shell with sunlight passing through translucent upper portion of shell.

The edges of many oyster shells are thin and fragile, but also very sharp.

Walking was easier where vegetation was firmly established. On the U.S. Atlantic coast, most salt marshes are dominated by Spartina grasses. There are several species of Spartina, but the most abundant is salt marsh cordgrass (Spartina alterniflora). Cordgrass thrives in this habitat, despite the harsh conditions—flooded twice-daily by tides, exposed to high salinity, and mired in anoxic (oxygen-free or oxygen-limited) mud.

golden brown grass, trees seen on horizon

Salt marsh cordgrass is the most abundant and ecologically important plant in East Coast salt marshes.

Most flowering plants have a fairly low tolerance for salt, but the cordgrass is watered by the ocean twice a day. Cordgrass meets the salty challenge by sequestering salt in its shoots and excreting the salt through glands in its leaves. The grass deals with the challenge of low oxygen levels in the deep mud by exchanging gases from roots in the upper few centimeters of mud to those underneath. Few plants have these dual abilities, which is the reason cord grass so thoroughly dominates salt marshes. Once you learn to identify salt marsh cordgrass, you can easily and accurately judge the average level of high tide, since cordgrass is usually limited to areas that receive substantial flooding with each high tide.

brown grass of salt marsh, taller rushes on left of photo, trees on horizon

The transition between the low marsh to the high marsh is marked by plants other than salt marsh cordgrass. The high marsh lies above the typical high tide line. Plants like black needlerush (Juncus roemerianus), salt meadow hay (Spartina patens), salt grass (Distichlis sp.), and saltwort (Salicornia sp.) begin to compete with cord grass where tidal flooding is less frequent. Needlerush is the taller plant on the left of the photo.

pinkish, segmented stem of saltwort

Saltwort is a noticeable member of the mid to high marsh community.

Unlike salt marsh cord grass, saltwort tolerates high salt levels through its ability to retain water in its stems, but it cannot withstand the same level of submersion that cordgrass can. Saltwort always captures my attention though, not only because it is a pretty plant, but because it is tasty. Late December is not a choice time for nibbling on saltwort stems. Few were even standing, but the sight of them reminded me of their pleasing salty bite. (I’ve also pickled saltwort using a recipe I found in a Euell Gibbons book. It tasted surprisingly good.)

Before leaving the marsh, I took some time to watch birds out on the lower fringes of the exposed mud. A casual scan through binoculars revealed over a hundred semipalmated plovers. On the edge of the marsh, these birds work to survive the winter before returning north to their breeding grounds from Newfoundland and Labrador west to Alaska.They were also finding a few more invertebrates than I was.

shorebird pulling a worm out of mud with its bill

Worms are yummy for plovers.

My urge to get a little closer to the exposed mudflats brought me to the edge of the cord grass where the mud was very soft. While plovers were pulling invertebrates out of the mud, I was having some difficultly extracting my boots from the mud. Salt marshes are challenging places to live and, if you’re human, difficult places to travel.

looking down on very muddy pants and footware

Salt marsh trekking is dirty business.